A Comprehensive
Planting Guide!
Steps To Planting A Fruit Tree/Shrub
*This guide is geared towards climate 6a. Although the information in this guide is generally universal, some climates may have slightly different requirements or suggestions for planting.
*This guide is geared towards climate 6a. Although the information in this guide is generally universal, some climates may have slightly different requirements or suggestions for planting.
Table of contents:
Step 1 - Planning
Step 2 - Digging A Hole
Step 3 - Tree/Shrub Planting
Step 4 - Filling The Hole
Step 5 - Mulching
Step 6 - Cages
Step 7 - Staking
Step 8 - Watering
Step 9 - Guilds!
Additional Information
- Soil Testing
- Planting Multiple Fruit Trees
- Pruning
Common Mistakes
Contact
Step 1 - Planning
Step 2 - Digging A Hole
Step 3 - Tree/Shrub Planting
Step 4 - Filling The Hole
Step 5 - Mulching
Step 6 - Cages
Step 7 - Staking
Step 8 - Watering
Step 9 - Guilds!
Additional Information
- Soil Testing
- Planting Multiple Fruit Trees
- Pruning
Common Mistakes
Contact
Step 1 - Planning
BEFORE PLANTING ANYTHING - Make sure that whatever you want to grow is not invasive in your area. Planting invasive species can cause serious damage to local ecosystem!
Choose the right tree/shrub for the right location.
Some considerations:
BEFORE PLANTING ANYTHING - Make sure that whatever you want to grow is not invasive in your area. Planting invasive species can cause serious damage to local ecosystem!
Choose the right tree/shrub for the right location.
Some considerations:
- Make sure you have enough space above the canopy to avoid power lines, ETC.
- Make sure you have enough space below ground to avoid pipes and to not damage your foundation, ETC.
- Make sure you plant where you will get enough light.
- Timing: The best time of year to plant trees and shrubs is in early fall, or late winter. *Avoid planting trees during extreme weather.
*Do your research in order to choose the best plant / location based on what and where you want to grow.*
*You may need to contact your local government or HOA to obtain permits, ETC before planting.*
*You may need to contact your local government or HOA to obtain permits, ETC before planting.*
Tree size reference
Tree Spacing Reference
Step 2 - Digging A Hole
Dig a wide and shallow hole.
1) You want your hole to be at least 2X wider than the root system of the seedling.
2) You want the hole only deep enough so that the roots facing down don't have to bend.
3) Score (cut) the edges of the hole so that the roots can easily penetrate the sides of the hole.
Dig a wide and shallow hole.
1) You want your hole to be at least 2X wider than the root system of the seedling.
2) You want the hole only deep enough so that the roots facing down don't have to bend.
3) Score (cut) the edges of the hole so that the roots can easily penetrate the sides of the hole.
*It is a good idea to test your hole before planting into it to ensure that it drains properly. Once your hole is dug, fill it half way with water and see how long it takes to drain. As a general rule of thumb, if it takes between 1-4 hours to drain, this is suitable for most trees. If the water drains too quickly, this may indicate sandy soils which may need to be amended with clay or other organic matter to help with water retention. If the water sits and does not drain for over 4 hours, this may be a sign on impermeable compacted clay soils which may need to be amended with sand or other organic materials to help promote proper water draining, or you may choose to plant trees and shrubs that like swampy soil types like Swamp Mallow. Remember that different soil types will drain slightly different so use this as a general guide, but if you are unsure, contact and support your local arborist!
Step 3 - Tree/Shrub Planting
1) Plant the main root (usually around the root flare) just below the surface of the soil.
2) Ensure that all roots face away from the base.
1) Plant the main root (usually around the root flare) just below the surface of the soil.
2) Ensure that all roots face away from the base.
*DO NOT allow the roots to circle the base.
*Be sure to prune the baby roots above the main root if there are any.
If there is no easily identifiable main root, simply plant the top roots at surface level.
*Be sure to prune the baby roots above the main root if there are any.
If there is no easily identifiable main root, simply plant the top roots at surface level.
Step 4 - Filling the hole
*Fill the hole with native soil*
1) Fill the space around the roots of your tree/shrub. Make sure you put the soil all around the roots and lift the upper roots as needed to ensure that the roots at the bottom are covered before the roots at the top.
2) Once the hole is filled, press down on the soil to make sure it is not too loose, but do not compact the dirt around your roots so much that they cannot breathe.
*Fill the hole with native soil*
1) Fill the space around the roots of your tree/shrub. Make sure you put the soil all around the roots and lift the upper roots as needed to ensure that the roots at the bottom are covered before the roots at the top.
2) Once the hole is filled, press down on the soil to make sure it is not too loose, but do not compact the dirt around your roots so much that they cannot breathe.
*Do not amend the soil you put in the hole. You want the tree to get used to its growing environment. If you want to give your tree an extra boost, amend the top layer of soil around the edges of the roots are below the soil so that the rain filters nutrients down to the roots and to promote outward growth of the roots.
Step 5) - Mulching
Properly mulch around your tree/shrub in the shape of a donut (or a bowl) NOT in the shape of a volcano.
1) Mulch should be kept (roughly 6 inches) away from the base of the tree/shrub. Avoid mulching the base of the tree as this can promote aerial roots (roots sprouting at the wrong part of the trunk), circular roots, pest infestation, poor water retention, disease and decay. The wider the circle around your tree/shrub, the better. Mulch prevents competition from grass, etc.
Properly mulch around your tree/shrub in the shape of a donut (or a bowl) NOT in the shape of a volcano.
1) Mulch should be kept (roughly 6 inches) away from the base of the tree/shrub. Avoid mulching the base of the tree as this can promote aerial roots (roots sprouting at the wrong part of the trunk), circular roots, pest infestation, poor water retention, disease and decay. The wider the circle around your tree/shrub, the better. Mulch prevents competition from grass, etc.
*Using a light layer of mulch around the base of the tree in order to cover bare soil is good! When covering soil close to the base of the tree, think about using a straw mulch cover, or use a layer of cardboard.
2) Mulch should be no more than 4 inches deep. Mulch breaks down over time feeding your plants. Keep in mind that as mulch breaks down, more will need to be added.
*A good rule of thumb is the replenish the mulch at the end of fall or the beginning of the winter months which allows them to break down over the winter and feed the roots, but also protects the roots incase of extreme cold conditions. Adding Mulch in the early spring makes the mulch more aesthetically pleasing and also helps to protect the roots from extreme summer heat as well as help with water retention.
I highly recommend using arborist-cut woodchip mulch which is natural, un-stained mulch with varied size pieces.
*There are a variety of alternative mulches that may work better in certain circumstances, so again, contact your local arborist if you have any questions or concerns.
I highly recommend using arborist-cut woodchip mulch which is natural, un-stained mulch with varied size pieces.
*There are a variety of alternative mulches that may work better in certain circumstances, so again, contact your local arborist if you have any questions or concerns.
Mulching Reference
Step 6 - Cages
Cages: If you live in an area where you are likely to get rabbit, squirrel, deer, or other visitors, using cages may be a must.
When putting a cage around your tree, make sure that your cage is temporary or that it will naturally adjust as the tree matures. Using chicken wire fencing and coiling it around the tree (w/o fasteners) is a good way to keep animals out. As the tree grows, the chicken wire will expand and will not choke the tree.
Cages: If you live in an area where you are likely to get rabbit, squirrel, deer, or other visitors, using cages may be a must.
When putting a cage around your tree, make sure that your cage is temporary or that it will naturally adjust as the tree matures. Using chicken wire fencing and coiling it around the tree (w/o fasteners) is a good way to keep animals out. As the tree grows, the chicken wire will expand and will not choke the tree.
Step 7 - Staking
Staking: When planting larger trees in areas with lots of wind, you may need to stake your tree. If you stake your tree, make sure that you use a temporary stake, and that your tree still has the ability to move with and get accustomed to the wind. Staking should only be used to keep a tree from being totally blown over by the wind. Once the tree is established, you should remove the stake(s).
*Staking may be avoided when planting seedlings.
Staking: When planting larger trees in areas with lots of wind, you may need to stake your tree. If you stake your tree, make sure that you use a temporary stake, and that your tree still has the ability to move with and get accustomed to the wind. Staking should only be used to keep a tree from being totally blown over by the wind. Once the tree is established, you should remove the stake(s).
*Staking may be avoided when planting seedlings.
Step 8 - Watering
Watering: When planting larger, non-native trees, and when you choose not to use a mulch ring around your trees, you may need to water your trees until they become established. Trees prefer infrequent deep watering. The suggestion is to water these trees for 30 minutes once every week/couple weeks for the first few years (depending on the variety).
Native seedlings are easier to get established and require less input. Planting seedlings while dormant in the early spring before the rainy season is a great way to jumpstart these seedlings and get them used to the environment they will be growing in. When planting native seedlings at the right time of year, with proper mulching techniques, you can (usually) avoid watering your seedlings. Remember, during cases of extreme heat, and excessive rain, watering practices may need to be adjusted accordingly. If you see the leaves of your tree begin to droop during the heat of the summer, they are probably thirsty and need a drink! If it is raining, or it shows that there is rain in the forecast, you should probably avoid watering your tree.
Watering: When planting larger, non-native trees, and when you choose not to use a mulch ring around your trees, you may need to water your trees until they become established. Trees prefer infrequent deep watering. The suggestion is to water these trees for 30 minutes once every week/couple weeks for the first few years (depending on the variety).
Native seedlings are easier to get established and require less input. Planting seedlings while dormant in the early spring before the rainy season is a great way to jumpstart these seedlings and get them used to the environment they will be growing in. When planting native seedlings at the right time of year, with proper mulching techniques, you can (usually) avoid watering your seedlings. Remember, during cases of extreme heat, and excessive rain, watering practices may need to be adjusted accordingly. If you see the leaves of your tree begin to droop during the heat of the summer, they are probably thirsty and need a drink! If it is raining, or it shows that there is rain in the forecast, you should probably avoid watering your tree.
Step 9 - Guilds!
*This is my favorite step!* :D
*This is my favorite step!* :D
Guild: A guild is a community of companion plants that support each other.
A guild works by grouping plants whos roots inhabit different levels of soil, have different feeding and light requirements, as well as utilizing their different properties of attracting or repelling different types of insects and animals, and diseases. Guilds can also help with water conservation and erosion control, as well as help to recycle nutrients and build soil.
A guild works by grouping plants whos roots inhabit different levels of soil, have different feeding and light requirements, as well as utilizing their different properties of attracting or repelling different types of insects and animals, and diseases. Guilds can also help with water conservation and erosion control, as well as help to recycle nutrients and build soil.
Guilds are commonly organized in layers based on plants height and root structure.
Guild Layers:
Guild Layers:
- Tree
- Shrub
- Herb
- Ground Cover
- Bulb
- Vine
*Bulbs, trees, and herbs typically have different root systems and do not compete for space in the same area of the soil.
*Trees and grasses typically share the same soil level for their roots which makes it harder for your tree to develop a healthy root system.
*Trees and grasses typically share the same soil level for their roots which makes it harder for your tree to develop a healthy root system.
An example of a guild could be:
Cherry - Tree
Goumi Berry - Shrub
Sage/Basil - Herb
Strawberry - Ground cover
Tulip/Gladiolus - Bulb
Kiwi - Vine
*You do not need to include all the layers above. I recommend using a minimum of 3 layers including the tree/shrub, and a ground cover.
*When planting a bulb layer, avoid using a bulb crop that you intend to harvest like bulb onions. Harvesting bulbs that are growing around the roots of the trees can harm the tree roots.
Cherry - Tree
Goumi Berry - Shrub
Sage/Basil - Herb
Strawberry - Ground cover
Tulip/Gladiolus - Bulb
Kiwi - Vine
- Cherry Tree (Prunus avium): The focal point of the guild, providing shade, fruit, and habitat for beneficial insects and birds.
- Goumi Berry (Elaeagnus multiflora): A nitrogen-fixing shrub that enriches the soil with nitrogen, provides edible berries for humans and wildlife, and attracts beneficial insects.
- Sage/Basil (Salvia spp. / Ocimum spp.): Herbs like sage and basil can deter pests with their aromatic properties and attract pollinators, enhancing fruit set.
- Strawberry (Fragaria spp.): A ground cover plant that helps suppress weeds, retains soil moisture, and provides edible fruit. It also serves as living mulch to protect the soil and the roots of the fruit tree.
- Tulip/Gladiolus (Tulipa spp. / Gladiolus spp.): Bulbs like tulips and gladiolus can add beauty to the guild while also attracting pollinators and beneficial insects.
- Kiwi Vine (Actinidia spp.): A vine that can climb the cherry tree or nearby structures, providing additional fruit production and habitat for wildlife.
*You do not need to include all the layers above. I recommend using a minimum of 3 layers including the tree/shrub, and a ground cover.
*When planting a bulb layer, avoid using a bulb crop that you intend to harvest like bulb onions. Harvesting bulbs that are growing around the roots of the trees can harm the tree roots.
*Remember that this is only an example.
Try many different groupings of companion plants! - What ever combination you choose, make sure you include native flowers and aromatics (like herbs) in the mix that have compatible growing conditions to promote healthy pollination and help prevent damage from pests!*
*It is also a good idea to include a green-manure aka bio-accumulator which may also act as a ground cover to shade roots, improve the soil structure, and naturally-fertilize your tree/shrub!
Try many different groupings of companion plants! - What ever combination you choose, make sure you include native flowers and aromatics (like herbs) in the mix that have compatible growing conditions to promote healthy pollination and help prevent damage from pests!*
*It is also a good idea to include a green-manure aka bio-accumulator which may also act as a ground cover to shade roots, improve the soil structure, and naturally-fertilize your tree/shrub!
Bio-Accumulator
A bio-accumulator is a plant that grows rapidly during a single growing season. It often has a deep tap root that penetrates deep into the soil bringing nutrients up and accumulating them in their leaves. When cut, these nutrients are added back into the surface of the soil which will break down and feed the surrounding plants.
A bio-accumulator is a plant that grows rapidly during a single growing season. It often has a deep tap root that penetrates deep into the soil bringing nutrients up and accumulating them in their leaves. When cut, these nutrients are added back into the surface of the soil which will break down and feed the surrounding plants.
Additional Information
Soil Testing:
Some trees and shrubs prefer different soil types and different soil PH levels. It can be a good idea to have your soil tested, but don't over think this. You will most likely have a variety of soil types, and different levels of soil PH in the same areas; Nature has a funny way of adjusting these things. The best idea is to simply make sure you are improving soil structure, adding organic matter, and avoiding biocides. Then keep an eye on your plants to make sure they appear happy and healthy.
*Plant health begins and ends in the soil.
Happy soil = Happy plants.*
*Note: Some trees and shrubs require specific PH levels and soil types in order to grow properly. Adding amendments or choosing alternative plants may be required in certain circumstances.
**It is always easier to plant the right plant in the right location than it is to optimize a specific location for a particular plant.**
Some trees and shrubs prefer different soil types and different soil PH levels. It can be a good idea to have your soil tested, but don't over think this. You will most likely have a variety of soil types, and different levels of soil PH in the same areas; Nature has a funny way of adjusting these things. The best idea is to simply make sure you are improving soil structure, adding organic matter, and avoiding biocides. Then keep an eye on your plants to make sure they appear happy and healthy.
*Plant health begins and ends in the soil.
Happy soil = Happy plants.*
*Note: Some trees and shrubs require specific PH levels and soil types in order to grow properly. Adding amendments or choosing alternative plants may be required in certain circumstances.
**It is always easier to plant the right plant in the right location than it is to optimize a specific location for a particular plant.**
Planting Multiple Fruit Trees:
1)When planting multiple fruit trees, avoid planting 2 of the exact same fruit next to each other. By planting different varieties next to each other you make them less susceptible to pests.
2) When planting multiple fruit trees it is best to include nitrogen-fixing trees and shrubs in order to support the healthy development of your fruit trees.
A good rule of thumb is the P.A.N. method.
P.A.N. stands for Pear, Apple, Nitrogen fixer. These don't have to be the fruit you plant, it is just an example of using different types of fruit, and including a nitrogen-fixing tree/shrub in the mix, as well as a good ratio to use.
1)When planting multiple fruit trees, avoid planting 2 of the exact same fruit next to each other. By planting different varieties next to each other you make them less susceptible to pests.
2) When planting multiple fruit trees it is best to include nitrogen-fixing trees and shrubs in order to support the healthy development of your fruit trees.
A good rule of thumb is the P.A.N. method.
P.A.N. stands for Pear, Apple, Nitrogen fixer. These don't have to be the fruit you plant, it is just an example of using different types of fruit, and including a nitrogen-fixing tree/shrub in the mix, as well as a good ratio to use.
Pruning:
*Before doing any pruning on a tree that you do not want to accidently hurt, I suggest contacting a local arborist. The information below is a general guide, but there are lots of nuances to tree and shrub pruning.*
1) Avoid pruning seedlings for the first few years.
2) When pruning, use sharp, clean tools. You want to prune only the branches that are dead/diseased, crossing, and weak branches.
3) Never prune more than 30% of the branches on a tree to avoid overstressing them. Prioritize pruning branches that are dead/diseased first.
*Prune dead/diseased branches as soon as you notice them regardless of the age of the tree or the time of year.*
*Be sure to clean your cutting tools with diluted bleach water, or vinegar after every time you cut any dead/diseased branches to avoid spreading diseases and cross-contamination.*
4) Pruning should be done at the right time of year. Most trees and shrubs do best when pruned at the beginning of the winter, after the first hard freeze, or at the end of winter/early spring while they are dormant and have not begun to bud.
*Note that some trees prefer to be trimmed after they have flowered, so be sure to research your specific tree/shrub for the best pruning practices.
*If you are unsure about how to properly prune your tree or shrub, contact and support your local arborist! <3
*Before doing any pruning on a tree that you do not want to accidently hurt, I suggest contacting a local arborist. The information below is a general guide, but there are lots of nuances to tree and shrub pruning.*
1) Avoid pruning seedlings for the first few years.
2) When pruning, use sharp, clean tools. You want to prune only the branches that are dead/diseased, crossing, and weak branches.
3) Never prune more than 30% of the branches on a tree to avoid overstressing them. Prioritize pruning branches that are dead/diseased first.
*Prune dead/diseased branches as soon as you notice them regardless of the age of the tree or the time of year.*
*Be sure to clean your cutting tools with diluted bleach water, or vinegar after every time you cut any dead/diseased branches to avoid spreading diseases and cross-contamination.*
4) Pruning should be done at the right time of year. Most trees and shrubs do best when pruned at the beginning of the winter, after the first hard freeze, or at the end of winter/early spring while they are dormant and have not begun to bud.
*Note that some trees prefer to be trimmed after they have flowered, so be sure to research your specific tree/shrub for the best pruning practices.
*If you are unsure about how to properly prune your tree or shrub, contact and support your local arborist! <3
Common Tree Planting Mistakes
Here is a fun, comprehensive video explaining several mistakes to avoid as well as proper techniques for plaint fruit trees!
*Arborist approved!* :D
*Arborist approved!* :D
For more clarification, or if you would like us to include any additional information, contact us below!
Additionally, If you ever have questions or concerns, please reach out and support your local arborist! <3
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Please reach out if you have any questions or concerns.
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